Here's how the vertical adjustment mechanism works: First, there's a 1-1/2" butt weld sanitary ferrule welded into the lid. Next, there's a custom machined 1-1/2" sanitary end cap with a collar attached. This custom piece is drilled through the center, and the collar is also drilled from the side, which allows a set screw to tighten onto a 9"x1/8" pipe. The pipe attaches to the float switch with a coupling. The end cap clamps onto the ferrule, and the pipe (through which the float switch wires run), can be lowered and raised so that the float switch is tripped at any point between 38 and 55 gallons in the kettle. A longer pipe would provide an even bigger range, but I don't see any need at this point for it to trip below 38 gallons.
Is there any way to get some better quality pictures of your float switches? I am in the process of trying to incorporate them into my system, but have not found a good way to make the height adjustable. Like you, I have all tri-clamp fittings and so want to keep that format. If you get a chance, send them to me at haf.mpty@gmail.com. If you post them up here, let me know. Thanks so much.
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